Bright colours, rich textures, gorgeous bolts of material tempting you to make another unplanned purchase? But before you whip up your credit card, let’s talk about some common mistakes that can turn your dream garment into a disaster. The process of selecting fabrics can be complicated, especially if you are a beginner in sewing. And while ‘mistakes’ are a normal part of the dressmaking journey, with a few practical checks, you can learn how to make better purchases and reduce waste.
1. Selecting Fabric Based Exclusively on Appearance
That beautiful print or colour may be calling your name, but don’t make appearance the only factor you take into consideration. “Looks” means nothing in fabric if it’s not appropriate for the end use you have in mind. That stiff brocade may be gorgeous on the roll, but it’s not the best match for the flowing maxi dress you want to create. Just as the stunning, delicate silk charmeuse is impractical for everyday workwear. Look for “character.” Does it drape? What’s its weight? How does it behave? Will it feel comfortable for daily wear? Fabrics have different personalities – get to know them before you get into a serious relationship.
2. Choosing Fabric Before Deciding on a Project
Purchasing fabric impulsively, with no project in the wings, will result in a pileup of unused materials. While it’s perfectly fine to purchase something special when you see a fabric that excites you, consistently buying without a plan leads to waste. Different projects require different kinds of fabrics. You need a structured fabric for a tailored blazer, something light and airy for a summer blouse. Choose your projects first, then pick your fabrics according to your chosen projects’ requirements.
3. Not Checking Fibre Content and Quality
The apparel fabrics market is vast, and you will often come across lower-quality fabrics regardless of the price. A lower-quality fabric may begin to pill easily, become worn-looking after several washings, or simply fall apart. This is why you should check the fibre content label. Is that beautiful, silky fabric the real thing, or is it synthetic? The effort and time invested in sewing is worth spending on higher-quality clothing fabric that will last longer.
4. Underestimating Quantity
There are few more frustrating experiences than finding you are out of fabric when you are right in the middle of a project. Always buy fabric in quantities that exceed what you believe you’ll need. Pattern envelopes usually include the amount, but they do not include error tolerance, pattern matching, or shrinkage. When you are working with a fabric that has a nap or a one-way design, you definitely need extra material.
5. Not Ordering Samples When Buying Online
Online shopping for fabrics gives consumers a phenomenal selection and convenience, but it also comes with some challenges. Colours look different on different computer screens, and you cannot feel the weight of the fabric when you look at a picture. Many fabric suppliers provide a swatch service where you can order a sample of a fabric for a small charge. This gives you an opportunity to feel the fabric before you commit to bigger quantities, and is especially recommended if the garment you are making is for a special occasion.
6. Not Prewashing Your Fabric
You can envision the scenario: you’ve cut out and sewn up your lovely garment, and one wash later, it’s shrunk two sizes, or it’s stained all your other laundry. Forgoing the prewash can save time, but it is a shortcut you may well regret. Most natural fibres tend to shrink in the wash, and many fabrics, particularly those with dark colours or prints, will bleed excess dye. Prewash your fabric in the same way you intend to care for your completed garment. This removes excess chemicals, allows you to see the fabric’s true drape, and eliminates future shrinkage. Press the fabric after washing to restore crispness before cutting.
7. Neglecting Stretch and Pattern Compliance
Not all clothing fabrics go well with all types of patterns. The pattern meant for woven fabrics will not go well with knit fabrics and vice versa, unless it’s otherwise indicated. The stretch percentage of the fabric also plays an important role. For example, a four-way stretch will not go well with fabric that stretches only in one direction. Large prints may overpower small pieces of clothing, whereas very small prints may be lost in the pleated areas.
8. Ignoring the Fabric Care Instructions
You have discovered the perfect clothing fabric, it fits your budget, it matches your project, but then you remember it’s dry clean only. Are you honestly going to take your sundress to the dry cleaner whenever you want to wear it out? Ask yourself how much maintenance you are willing to put into a piece of clothing. Are you a “throw it in the washing machine” type of person? If so, then fabrics like these are going to be expensive decorations in your closet.
9. Not Considering Your Skill Level
That wavy silk charmeuse is stunning, but maybe not for your three-months-of-sewing skills. Slippery fabrics, weighty ones like denim or canvas, and pile fabrics like velvet all take special skills and usually special equipment too. There’s nothing wrong with working your way up to fussy fabrics. Starting with a medium-weight cotton or linen will give you much better results and save you from frustrations.
The Bottom Line
Take your time when choosing garment fabrics. Touch it, read the labels, think about how you will use it, and don’t let a pretty print override practical considerations. It’s always a good idea to practice with less expensive fabrics and make a toile or a mock-up of the garment before working on the final version. Over time and with more experience, choosing fabrics becomes less of a guessing game and a more enjoyable step of the creative process. But, until then, try to avoid these nine common mistakes, so you can be sure your final product is worth the extra effort and attention to detail.
